Thursday, February 27, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 99 Mawmene ryall


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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99. Mawmene ryall
Grynd reysons & draw up in the same maner of wynes as thu dydist that othir by [f.68r] fore put ther to crem of almonds do hit in a pot take al kyndes of hote spyces as thu didist to that othir & parid gynger & datys cut & sygure claryfyed & put hit in a pot to gedyr with some of the wyne & boyle hit with some of the same wyne to gedyr & take hit of & put hit to gedyr to that othir & put ther to poudyr of canell poudyr of gynger of lumbard & othir good poudres set hit on the fyre stere hit well when hit ys at the boylyng take hit of loke hit be doucet & yf hot have any of poudyr loke thu have brawn of capons fesauntes or pertryggs sodyn tendyr & tesyd small put ther to lat hit be nought stondyng loke hit be brown of canell saundres & safron & messe hit forth as a flate potage & florysch hit with sygure plate strewyd uppon when hit ys boyled loke no leve of the fyre ryse aboven the viaunt ryall for brennyng of the sewe.

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There is a recipe for mawmeny in A Noble Boke off Cookry that has some of the elements of this recipe, but it is nowhere near as detailed.
To mak mamony, tak whit wyne and sugur then bray the braun of viii capons with a gal on of oile and a quart of hony put ther to poudur of pepper galingalle guingere and canelle and stirre it welle and serue it.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

Other sources have mawmeny recipes that are closer to the Wagstaff version. The two below are similar in detail, with the one from Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books being the best match.


Mawmenee. XX. Take a pottel of wyne greke. and ii. pounde of sugur take and clarifye the sugur with a qantite of wyne an drawe it thurgh a straynour in to a pot of erthe take flour of Canell. and medle with sum of the wyne an cast to gydre. take pynes with Dates and frye hem a litell in grece oþer in oyle and cast hem to gydre. take clowes an flour of canel hool and cast þerto. take powdour gyngur. canel. clower, colour it with saundres a lytel yf hit be nede cast salt þerto. and lat it seeþ; warly with a slowe fyre and not to thyk, take brawn of Capouns yteysed. oþer of Fesauntes teysed small and cast þerto.  [Forme of Cury (England, 1390)]
Mawmene. Take vernage, or other strenger wyne of the best that a man may finde, and put hit in a potte, and cast there-to a gode quantite of powder Canell, And sette hit ouer the fire, And yif hit a hete; And then wring oute softe thorgh a streynour, that the draff go not oute, And put in a faire potte; take and pike newe faire pynes, And wassh hem clene in wyne, And caste of hem a grete quantite there-to; And take white sugur ynowe, as moche as thi licour is, And cast there-to; and take confeccions or charge de quyns, a goode quantite, and cast thereto; and drawe a few saundres with stronge wyne thorgh a Streynour, and cast there to; And put al in a potte; And cast there-to a good quantite of Clowes, and sette hit ouer the fire, and gif hit a boyling; And take Almondes, and drawe hem with mighti wyne thorgh a streynour; And at the first boiling, a-ley hit vp, and yeve hit a boyle; and ley hit vp with ale, and gif hit a boyle, and sette hit fro the fire; and caste thereto tesid brawne of Fesaunte, partrich, or capon, a good quantite, and ceson hit vppe with pouder of ginger ynogh, and a litull saffron and salt; And if hit be stronge, aley hit with vinegre of swete wyn, and dresse hit flatte with the bak of a Saucer or A ladell; And as thou dressest hit with the saucer in vinegre or mighty wyne, wete the saucer or ladell fore cleving, and loke that hit haue sugur right ynogh, And serve hit forth.  [Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery-Books (England, 1430)]

Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 98 Viaund ryall


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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98. Viaund ryall
Grynd reysons draw with bastard clare osey or othir swete wyn the best thu may gete take datys cut grete reysons of coraunce clovis macys pynes & floure of canel yf thu have hit pure hit in a pot & som of the good wyn ther with when hit ys boyled y nowghe take the syrip of the resons & the creme of almonds & past ryall & pynad and gobet ryal & gynger in confite & claryfyd quynsys or chard wardys poudyr poudyr of canell do al thes to gedyr yn a pot set hit on the fyre stere hit wel when hit ys at the boylyng take hit of loke hit be doucet and that hit have y nowgh of poudres & somdell of salt deresse hit forth as a flate potage & yf thu serve hit forth colour hit with blossemys of safron have fisch braune sodyn tendyr & draw yn thorowgh a streynour & colour hit with safron that hit be as brythe as lambur when hit ys cold floresch the sewe ther with in dysches & serve hit forthe.

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There is a recipe for viand royal in Ancient Cookery, but it bears only a passing resemblance to the recipe in Wagstaff.

Viande riall for xl. mees. Take a galone of vernage, and fethe hit into iii. quartes, and take a pynte therto, and two pounde of sugree, ii. lb. of chardekoynes (qu. cardamums), a pounde of pasteroiale, and let hit fethe untyl a galone of vernage. Take the yolkes of 60 eyren, and bete hom togeder, and drawe hom thurgh a straynour, and in the fettynge doune of the fyre putte the zolkes therto, and a pynte of water of ewrose, and a quartrone of pouder of gynger, and dresse hit in dysshes plate, and take a barre of golde soy le, and another of fylver foyle, and laye hom on Seint Andrews croffe wysc above the potage; and then take sugre plate or gynger plate, or paste royale, and kutte hom of losenges, and plante hom in the voide places betwene the barres; and serve hit forthe.  [Ancient Cookery (England, 1425)]

Thursday, February 20, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 97 Dyvers desyre


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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97. Dyvers desyre
Grynd reysons draw hem up with osey othir with swete wyn that hit ve somdele thyn do hit in a pott mynse datys & do ther to & reysons of coraunse clovys macys poudyr of pepyr & poudyr lombard & sigure take pyggez clene y schallyd or kede or lomb or konyng or chikenes choppyd small in pecys & frye hit & do hit to gedyr boyle hit & sesyn hit up with poudyr of gynger & salt & yf thu wilt take venyger & make hit egyr & serve hit forth & yf thu wylt grynd almondes & do in the same maner & coloure hit with turnesole othir let hit be white whethir thu wilt and yf thu may make past of eyron & paryd floure make yn thy foyle & boyle hit in small pelets or els in pelys & fry hem in white grece lat the flesch be out & when the sew boyleth do hit ther to & serve hit forth or yf thu wylt make foyles of past & couche ther yn foyl flesch of capons & porke sodyn & groundyn & seson hit up with poudres & salt make pelets ther of eche [f.67v] pelet as grete as a fynger loke hit be well y closyd & frydd put hit in dysches & poure the syrip abovyn & let no venyger come ther yn yf thu wilt have a stondyng potage ther of draw hit more chargeaunt & draw hit forth as mortrewys that thu makyst of reysons & of the same colour as that othir ys before & do parte the othir in the dysches and yf thu wylt make ther of a bakyn thu may put everych of them by hem sylf or els depart that on with that othir & serve hit forth whethir thy wylt hote or cold & strew ther on a dragge of paryd gynger mynsyd & anys in confite & blaunch poudyr & serve hit forth whetyr hit be in the forme of potage or of bakyn mete in what kind that thu wylt thu may hit & a ley hit with yolkes of eyron yf thu lyst aftyr the boylyng take som of the same & set hit on the fyre yn a pott & at the boylyng have yolkes of eyron drawn thorow a streynour in to a bolle & poure yn the wyn softely & rennyng & stere hit s fast in the bolle for quellyng & loke that hit be ryght chargeaunt of yolkes & put hit in to that other sewe that ys made by fore ster hit well to gedyr do hit forth loke no venyger come ther on loke hit be doucet & som dele bytyng of the poudres and yf thu wilt make hit of fisch thu mayse in the same maner as thu dedist the flesch take calvour samon base & melet splattyd & choppyd in pecys & frydd & do ther with as thu dost with the flesch or take a perch or els haddok or base sodyn pike out the bonys grynd hit & medyll hit with good poudres & salt & make hit in rounde pelets than have a batire of mylke of almondys put the pelets ther yn take hem up & frye hem yn hole rolle hem rounde ley hem in disches & poure the syrip a bovyn and yf thu lyst thu maist do with flesch yn the same maner.

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This monster of a recipe appears to be several (ten?) recipes in one, and while individual pieces are similar to recipes in other sources the recipe as a whole seems to be unique.

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 96 Cold bruet of rabets


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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96. Cold bruet of rabets
Grynd reysons or datys draw hem up with osey put ther to creme of almond & poudyr of canel a grete dele drawyn with swete wyn poudyr lumbard poudour of greynez & poudyr of gynger & a lytyll of venyger a swete sygure set hit on the fyre when hit ys boylyng take hit of & put hit in a boll have rabets boyled & that in good broth & salt take hem unlace hem by the bake fro thy bonys on both sydes ley hem in a sewe serve hem forth ley hem in dyshys & poure on the sewe ther to serve hit forth & yf thu wylt thu may chop hem in pecys & yf thu have chikenys reys the whynges & the thyes of hem kepe hem & chop the body & when hit ys in the sewe serve hit forthe in the same maner as sewe qyall.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 38 in A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak cold bruet for rabettes tak and grind raissines or dates and drawe them up with ossay put ther in creme of almonds and pouder of cannelle a good quantite drawen with swet wyne and with pouder lombard pouder of guinger venygar and sugur then sett it on the fyere and when it is at boilinge tak it doun and put it in a bole then tak a rabet and boile it in good brothe then tak hym up and unlace hym by the bak from the bones on bothe sides and lay them in the sewe and when ye serue them furthe chop them in peces and raise the wings and leggs of chekkins and kerue them hole and chop the bodis and put them in the sewe and serue them furthe in the manner of sewe ryalle or egre douce.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There are other recipes for rabbit stew in medieval cookbooks, but I haven't seen any with this combination of ingredients.

Based on a comparison of the two versions, I believe that the word "qyall" in
Wagstaff is a copy error of "ryalle" (royal).

Thursday, February 13, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 95 Lech lumbard


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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95. Lech lumbard
Claryfye hony put ther to poudyr lat hit boyle longe put ther to almonds [f.67r] cut smal and gradyd bred that hit be chargeaunt stere hit well to gedyr lat hit nought boyle to longe for brennyng of the almondys take gratyd bred & strew on a clene borde take hit out of the pott & lay ther on & strew on more gratyd bred and couch hit to gynger gedyr that hit ren nought a brod when hit ys cold cut hit in brod leches & serve forth ij or iij yn a dysch & strew on poudyr of gynger If thu may hete hit have smal konenys by fore & poure hit ther yn & serve hit in the stede of cold bakemete or yf thu wilt poure hit by hit sylf and crem of almonds or els mylke a stondyng potage of quynsys or of fruet colourd yolow & fil hit up that othir syde & strew ther on anneys in confyte & othir dragge what thu wylte & serve hit forth cold.

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There is a recipe for Leche Lombard in A Noble Boke off Cookry (recipe 22), but it seems to be missing the a portion at the beginning.
Boile gadur of the skome and set it to the fyere agayne put ther to pouder of pepper canelle and grated bred and stirre it well to gedur colour it withe saffron and sanders and in the settinge doun do ther to a litill venygar mellid with pouder of guinger and stirr it and let it be stif then gadur it up in a clothe and splat it some dele abrod and couer it with the same clothe till it be colde and lay ij or iij lesks in a dyshe and straw ther on pouder of guinger mellid with sugur and serue it.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

There are several other recipes with the same title in surviving cookbooks, but most include ingredients like dates or pork that would make for a very different final product.  The closest to the Wagstaff version is the following one from Ancient Cookery.
Leche lumbarde. Take honey clarified, and vernage, or other wyne, and let hit boyle togeder, and colour hit with faundres and saffron, and cast therto pouder of pepur, or of greynes, and a lytel pouder of canel, and in the boylynge cast therto grated bred to make hit thik; and when hit is sul boyled, that hit be thik ynogh in the fettynge doune, put therto a lytel vynegur, medelet; with pouder of ginger, and stere hit togeder; and then poure al on a faire canevas, and let hit'kele; and when hit is colde, cut hit in faire brode leches, and lay hom in dishes, and strawe above sugre, and pouder of ginger medeled togeder; and serve hit forth.  [Arundel 334 (England, 1425)]

Tuesday, February 11, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 94 Cold lech viaund


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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94. Cold lech viaund
Take quynses boyled pare hem pike out the buyst cut hem yn pecys do hem in a pott of erth do ther to white grece that hony or sygure ys put yn & aley hem up with hony claryfydd & raw yolkes of eyren & a lytyll almond mylke do ther to poudres of safron & lech hit fayre.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 37 from A Noble Boke off Cookry, making the fifth recipe in this sequence in both sources.
To mak cold lesche vyand, tak quynces boiled paire them and pik out the core and cutt them in small pesses and put them in an erthen pot put ther to whyt grec and alay them up with hony claryfied and with raw yolks of egges and a littil almonde mylk and dates pouder of saffron and lesche it furthe.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

The word "buyst" in the Wagstaff version is given here as "core".  I suspect it was meant as the Middle-English word "buiste" or "boist", meaning box or socket, possibly from the French "bois" (wood).

Thursday, February 6, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 93 Storgeon for sopers


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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93. Storgeon for sopers
Take calvys fete & flesch of the hed & the longes sodyn tendyr hew hem smal tempyr hem up with the same broth or yf thu wylt thu may gnde [grind?] hit & tempyr hit well and strew on foulys of percelleye & do ther to poudyr of pepyr poudyr of clovys yf thu wylt & salt & boyle hit to gedyr & ley hit on a clene bord & kepe hit well to gedyr that hit ren nought a brod when hit ys cold cut hit in leches do venyger yn boyle onyons mynsyd & foules of percelleye & poudyr of gynger ley the leches ther yn & when thu sendyst hem ley ij or iij in a dysch & somdell of the sauce ther with.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 36 in A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak sturgion for sopers tak calves feet the hert and the lung soden tender then hewe them and temper them up with the same brothe and ye may grond them and strawe on foilis of parsly poudre of pepper guinger clowes and salt and boile it and lay it on a clene bord and kepe it well to gedure that it run not abrod and when it is cold cutt it in iij lesks then put venygar in a bolle and mynte onyons parsly and pouder of guinger and lay the leskes ther in and serue iij or iiij in a dyshe and som of the sauce poured on.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

The recipe is a bit unusual in that it has both fish-day and meat-day aspects (sturgeon and calf, respectively) which lead me to wonder if the inclusion of calf's feet was a copy error.

Tuesday, February 4, 2014

Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany - 92 Betreyn in flesch tyme


Recipes from the Wagstaff Miscellany (Beinecke MS 163)

This manuscript is dated about 1460.

The 200 (approx.) recipes in the Wagstaff miscellany are on pages 56r through 76v.

Images of the original manuscript are freely available on the Yale University Library website.

I have done my best to provide an accurate, but readable transcription. Common abbreviations have been expanded, the letters thorn and yogh have been replaced with their modern equivalents, and some minor punctuation has been added.

Copyright © 2014 by Daniel Myers, MedievalCookery.com

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92. Betreyn in flesch tyme
Take calves feet clene scalyd set hem in wyne & a perty of swete broth that thay be tendyr take hem up on a bord pyke a way the bonys kep som for senewys hew hem al to gedyr grynd hit temper hit up with the self broth do hit in a pot dyse the senewys blaunch almond and poudyr of pepyr poudyr of clovys & a lytyll poudyr of canel a grede dele of saundrys & yf thu wilt of safron a lytyll set hit on the fyre & when hit boyleth put ther to yolkes of eyron dysyd smal & poudyr of gynger venyger & salt put hit on a vessell when hit ys cold leche hit & serve hit forth.

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This recipe is a match for recipe 35 in A Noble Boke off Cookry.
To mak Bretyn in fleshe tym tak calves feet skald them and sethe them in wyne and a part of swet brothe till they be tender then tak them upe and lay them upon a bord and pik out the bones and chope them all to gedure and tempere them up with the sam brothe and put them into the pot and dice the synuks then tak blanched almonde pouder of pepper and pouder of clowes a gret dele and meld alitill pouder of cannelle and sanders and saffron and set them on the fyere and when it comethe put ther to yolks of eggs diced smalle pouder of guinger venyegar and salt and put it in a small vessell and when it is cold leshe it and serue it.  [A Noble Boke off Cookry (England, 1468)]

It is notable that along with the previous recipe, "Betrayn yn lentyn", I couldn't find this pair of recipes in any source other than Noble.